Maytag Washer Error Codes
Roughly half the codes a Maytag washer can show cost nothing to clear. The other half point at a part. This page separates them: the official meaning of each code from Maytag, which ones you can clear yourself in five minutes, and what the rest actually cost from our completed repairs. Full pricing from real invoices: LG washer error codes.
Code Will Not Clear?
Firm price before the work starts, and the $99 diagnostic comes off the repair.
Maytag uses two code systems depending on the machine. Front load washers report faults as a letter-number pair like F9 E1. Top load high-efficiency washers use short words and abbreviations like Sud, Ofb and LdL, plus the same F-and-E pairs for system errors.
Both are listed below with Maytag’s own wording. The prices are ours, from completed repairs where a part was installed. Full pricing from real invoices: what a washing machine drum is.
🟢 Codes That Cost Nothing
Start here. These are Maytag telling you about the load, the water supply or the lid, not about a broken part.
| Code | Official meaning | What to do |
|---|---|---|
| Sud or Sd | There are too many suds in the washing machine | Use HE detergent only |
| Ofb | The washer load is out of balance | Redistribute the load, press start |
| OL | The washer load was too large | Remove several items, restart |
| HC | Hot and cold inlet hoses installed incorrectly (reversed) | Shut off water, swap the hoses |
| lid | The washer lid was left open | Close the lid |
| PF | The wash cycle was interrupted by a power failure | Hold start to resume |
| Int | The cycle was paused or canceled | Press pause twice, then power once |
| LOC or LC | Control Lock has been activated | Hold the Control Lock button |
| rL or F34 | Items detected during the Clean Washer cycle | Remove the items, restart |
| dET | Detergent cartridge not detected in the dispenser | Reseat the cartridge, close the drawer |
Meanings quoted from Maytag product help for top load HE and front load washers.
Sud deserves a note because it is the code most often misread as a fault. Excess suds make the machine sense a load it cannot spin, so it slows down, adds rinse water and takes far longer than normal. People conclude the washer is dying. It is reacting to detergent. A high-efficiency machine uses a fraction of the water a traditional one did, so a normal dose of ordinary detergent produces far more foam than the drum can clear.
🔧 Codes That Point at a Part
| Code | Official meaning | Likely repair |
|---|---|---|
| F9 E1 | Drain times are longer than expected, typically over eight minutes | $380 |
| F8 E1 LF, Lo FL | The washer is sensing a low flow of water, or taking too long to fill | $362 |
| F5 E2 | The door is not locking properly | $390 |
| F7 E1 | Indicates a motor speed sensing error | $384 |
| F8 E2 | Indicates there is a problem with the Dispenser System | varies |
| LdL | Lid is not locking | $390 |
| LdU | Lid cannot unlock | $390 |
| drn | Washer is not draining properly | $374 |
| F# E# or F## | System error code | $439 if the board |
Code meanings from Maytag. F9 E1 is a median of 10 completed repairs where that code was the reason for the visit. The other figures are medians for the part the code points at, across all washer brands: drain pump $374 (127 jobs), water inlet valve $362 (104), door lock $390 (14), drive motor $384 (23), control board $439 (112).
F9 E1 — Draining Too Slowly, $380
The most useful code on the machine, because Maytag defines it precisely: drain times longer than expected, typically over eight minutes. The washer is not refusing to drain, it is draining and timing itself doing so.
Across 10 completed repairs where F9 E1 brought us out, the median invoice was $380, with the middle half between $360 and $425. That tight range is unusual and it tells you something: when F9 E1 turns out to be a real fault, it is almost always the same fault, a failing drain pump.
If the hose is fine, the pump is next, and coins or hairpins jamming the impeller account for a real share of them. Full symptom guide: washer not draining.
F8 E1, LF and Lo FL — Filling Too Slowly, $362
Three labels for one condition: the machine is sensing low water flow. Maytag’s first instruction is to verify the household supply and confirm both hot and cold faucets are fully open, which sounds obvious until you remember how often a valve behind a washer gets nudged during a move or a repair.
When the supply checks out, the water inlet valve is the part, at a median of $362 across 104 completed jobs. Mineral deposits on the valve seat are what usually finish it off, which is why this repair shows up earlier in hard-water areas.
F5 E2, LdL and LdU — The Door or Lid Lock, $390
A front loader cannot run with the door unlocked, and a top load HE machine cannot spin with the lid unlatched. When the lock fails, the machine refuses to start rather than proceeding unsafely.
Maytag’s first step is checking for items blocking the door or detergent buildup around the lock mechanism, and that genuinely clears some of these. When it does not, the lock assembly runs a median of $390. This is also the repair most often confused with a control board at $439, because both present as a machine that will not start.
F7 E1 — Motor Speed Sensing, $384
Maytag lists two causes before the motor itself: shipping bolts left in place, and overloading. Shipping bolts matter more than people expect. They hold the drum rigid for transport, and a machine run with them still fitted will throw motor errors and can damage itself within a few cycles.
If the bolts are out and loads are reasonable, the drive motor is a median of $384 across 23 jobs.
⚡ Ran the free checks and the code came back? Then it is a part. Firm price before any work starts, and the $99 comes off the repair.
📈 Which Codes Actually Bring Us Out
Maytag documents every code the machine can produce. Our records show which ones people actually call about. Counting how often each appeared in the reason for a washer visit:
| Code | Times it appeared |
|---|---|
| F5 family — door and lid lock | 20 |
| F9 E1 — long drain | 17 |
| E1 — control circuit | 16 |
| E3 — motor or drive | 14 |
| F7 E1 — motor speed sensing | 12 |
| F8 family — water supply and dispenser | 6 |
Count of washer jobs where the code appeared in the service description. Not every one ended in a repair.
Locks and drains lead, and that is consistent with what wears on a washing machine. The door lock cycles twice per wash for years. The drain pump moves everything the clothes carried in. Neither is a design flaw, both are consumables with a long life.
Maytag and Whirlpool Share the Code System
Whirlpool Corporation owns Maytag, and the F-and-E code structure is common across the group. An F9 E1 on a Maytag and an F9 E1 on a Whirlpool mean the same thing and point at the same part, which is why a technician who knows one knows the other.
Our pricing data shows the same relationship from the other direction: Maytag washers run a median of $355 and Whirlpool $357, six dollars apart across 923 combined jobs. Shared engineering produces shared codes and shared invoices. Amana and Whirlpool-built Kenmore sit in the same band at $350 and $349.
🧾 What a Maytag Washer Repair Costs
Across 386 completed Maytag washer repairs the median invoice is $355 — parts, labor and the service call together, with half of jobs between $311 and $411.
| Brand | Jobs | Median invoice |
|---|---|---|
| Kenmore | 109 | $349 |
| Amana | 69 | $350 |
| Maytag | 386 | $355 |
| Whirlpool | 537 | $357 |
| Samsung | 645 | $380 |
| GE | 428 | $382 |
| LG | 312 | $385 |
Median full invoice by brand across completed washer repairs where a part was installed.
Maytag sits within six dollars of Whirlpool, which owns the brand, and within six of Amana and Kenmore, which are built on related platforms. Machines that share parts cost the same to fix. The Korean brands and GE run about 25 dollars higher, and that gap is parts pricing rather than harder labor.
Full pricing across every washer repair: washing machine repair cost. Brand comparison across all appliances: appliance repair cost by brand.
📊 Where These Numbers Come From
- Code meanings are quoted from Maytag product help, for top load HE and front load washers. We do not reword them, because a code means what the manufacturer says it means.
- F9 E1 is the one code with enough completed repairs behind it to publish its own median: 10 jobs where that code was the reason for the visit.
- Every other price is the median for the part the code points at, across all washer brands, and is labelled as such. We do not invent a per-code figure from three jobs and present it as precise.
- Full invoice. Parts, labor and the service call in one number, never the part alone.
- Completed jobs only. Scheduled and cancelled work excluded.
The wider dataset across all nine appliance types and 65,924 completed jobs: appliance repair cost.
Pricing and Savings
Approve the work and the diagnostic fee is credited against the invoice. Veterans and seniors take $30 off any repair. New customers take $20 off a first service. Repairs carry a 90-day parts and labor warranty.
Washer Guides and Pricing
Symptom guides, brand pages and pricing across our service area.
Maytag Appliance RepairThe brand in full
Washer Codes, All BrandsThe general reference
Out of BalanceWhy Ofb keeps appearing
Washer Not DrainingWhat sits behind F9 E1
Washer Not SpinningBelt, motor or lock
Deep Clean a Front LoaderThe fix for Sud
How Long Washers LastLifespan by type
Front Load vs Top LoadRepair profile of each
Bosch Dishwasher CodesThe same treatment for E-codes
Repair Cost by BrandEvery brand compared
Appliance Repair CostAll nine types, 65,924 jobs
Maytag Washer Error Code FAQ
What does F9 E1 mean on a Maytag washer?
Maytag defines F9 E1 as drain times longer than expected, typically over eight minutes. Check the drain hose for kinks and verify the standpipe height first, as Maytag advises. When it is a genuine fault it is almost always the drain pump, at a median of $380 across 10 completed repairs.
How do I clear a Maytag washer error code?
For F-and-E system codes, Maytag’s instruction is to press START/PAUSE once to clear the code, then press it again to restart. Load-related codes such as Sud, Ofb and OL clear once you fix the cause: correct detergent, a redistributed load, or a smaller load.
What does Sud mean on a Maytag washer?
There are too many suds in the machine. Maytag’s remedy is to use only HE high-efficiency detergent. Excess foam makes the washer sense a load it cannot spin, so it slows down and adds rinses, which people often mistake for a mechanical fault. Running one empty hot cycle with no detergent usually clears it.
Why does my Maytag washer show LF or F8 E1?
Both mean the washer is sensing low water flow or taking too long to fill. Maytag’s first step is verifying the household supply and that both hot and cold faucets are fully open. If the supply is fine, the water inlet valve is the usual part, at a median of $362 across 104 completed jobs.
What does F5 E2 mean and can I fix it myself?
The door is not locking properly. Maytag advises checking for items blocking the door and clearing detergent buildup around the lock, which does resolve some cases. When the lock assembly itself has failed the repair runs a median of $390. It is often confused with a control board at $439, since both show as a machine that will not start.
How much does a Maytag washer repair cost?
The median is $355 including parts, labor and the service call, across 386 completed Maytag washer repairs, with half falling between $311 and $411. That is within six dollars of Whirlpool, which owns the brand and shares much of the platform.
Which Maytag codes mean I do not need a technician?
Sud, Ofb, OL, HC, lid, PF, Int, LOC, rL and dET are all load, supply or user codes with documented remedies you can carry out yourself. F9 E1, F8 E1, F5 E2, F7 E1, LdL, LdU and drn point at a part once the free checks are done.
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