A dryer repair runs a median of $352, with most jobs between $294 and $437. There is one thing worth understanding before you book anything: clearing a blocked vent costs $350 and replacing a burnt-out heating element costs $362, and the blocked vent is usually what burnt out the element.
What each dryer repair costs
| Repair | Typical total | Based on |
|---|
| Door switch | $321 | 54 repairs |
| Drive belt | $322 | 259 repairs |
| Thermal fuse | $332 | 84 repairs |
| Drum rollers or idler pulley | $349 | 218 repairs |
| Thermostat | $350 | 144 repairs |
| Blocked vent cleared | $350 | 43 repairs |
| Heating element | $362 | 360 repairs |
| Blower wheel | $368 | 22 repairs |
| Drive motor | $394 | 55 repairs |
| Control board | $478 | 71 repairs |
Median full ticket: part, labour and the service call together, from 4,218 completed dryer repairs. Overall dryer median $352, middle range $294 to $437. Diagnostic with no part replaced $99. Stacked washer-dryer units $150 to diagnose.
The vent is the story
Look at two rows in that table. A blocked vent cleared is $350. A heating element replaced is $362. Twelve dollars apart, and 360 element replacements against 43 vent clearances.
That ratio is not because vents rarely block. It is because by the time most people call, the restricted airflow has already cooked the element, and what gets booked is an element replacement. The dryer runs longer and longer to dry a load, the internal temperature climbs because the heat has nowhere to go, and eventually the element or the thermal fuse gives out. The fuse is the cheap version of that ending at $332, the element the common one at $362.
So the practical advice is unglamorous and it costs us a booking: if your dryer is taking noticeably longer than it used to, deal with the vent before the element fails. The full walkthrough of that symptom is on dryer not drying fast.
This is also the fire risk. Lint packed into a vent run is combustible, and a dryer that runs hot because it cannot exhaust is the mechanism behind most dryer fires. A vent that has never been cleared in five years is worth clearing whether or not the machine is currently misbehaving.
What it costs by symptom
| Complaint | Typical total | Based on |
|---|
| Drum will not tumble | $335 | 223 repairs |
| Will not start | $341 | 151 repairs |
| Noise | $349 | 601 repairs |
| Clothes still damp | $365 | 226 repairs |
| Shuts off mid-cycle | $368 | 34 repairs |
| No heat at all | $368 | 969 repairs |
No heat is by a wide margin the most common dryer complaint we take, at 969 repairs.
Matching the symptom to the likely cause
- Runs, tumbles, no heat. Heating element or thermostat on electric dryers, at $362 and $350. Before that, check the breaker: many electric dryers use a double breaker, and if only half trips the drum still turns while the heat is dead.
- Clothes damp after a full cycle. Airflow, not heat. Vent run, blower wheel or a lint trap that is clogged at the housing rather than the screen. This is the symptom where clearing the vent early saves the element.
- Loud rumbling or squealing. Drum rollers or the idler pulley, $349. The most common noise complaint we take, and it worsens predictably rather than suddenly.
- Motor hums but the drum will not turn. Drive belt, $322, or a seized roller putting load on the motor.
- Nothing at all when you press start. Door switch at $321, thermal fuse at $332, or the outlet. All three are cheap, and the door switch in particular is a two-dollar part that stops the whole machine.
- Shuts off partway through every cycle. Overheating, which loops back to the vent. The thermal fuse and the cycling thermostat are doing their job by cutting it off.
- Replacing the element yourself. Covered on how to replace a dryer heating element, with the caveat that the element is rarely the root cause on its own.
Free things to check before booking. Clear the lint screen and then look into the housing beneath it, which collects a felt layer people never see. Disconnect the flexible hose at the back and check it is not crushed behind the machine or packed solid. Confirm both halves of the breaker. On gas dryers, confirm the supply valve is fully open. Any of those four explains a large share of the calls we take.
Gas and electric
Both are standard work for us. Electric dryers fail mostly at the element and thermostat, gas dryers at the igniter and the gas valve coils. We are not publishing component medians for the gas-specific parts here because our sample for those is small, and a number from six repairs is not a number worth quoting. The overall dryer median of $352 covers both types.
The type comparison, including heat pump and condenser dryers which are becoming more common in apartments without external venting, is on types of dryers. Condenser and heat pump machines have no vent run at all, which removes the failure mode above and introduces a different one: the condenser unit itself needs regular cleaning or drying times climb the same way.
Dryers are the most approved repair we do
Across all appliances, about 63 percent of diagnoses end with the repair approved. On dryers that figure is 20.5 percent, roughly half the rate of anything else and the lowest in our whole workload.
We do not have a confirmed explanation for that gap and we are not going to invent one. Price does not explain it, because dryer repairs are mid-range rather than cheap, and replacement cost does not explain it either, since a new dryer costs less than a new refrigerator and refrigerators get approved more often than washers do. What we can say is that when a dryer is diagnosed, four owners in five go ahead.
Which dryer brands we see most
| Brand | Share of branded dryer calls |
|---|
| Samsung | 25.8 percent |
| Whirlpool | 19.3 percent |
| GE | 17.4 percent |
| Maytag | 12.1 percent |
| LG | 11.3 percent |
Based on 2,524 branded dryer calls. Share of the installed base we service, not failure rate per unit sold. See most reliable appliance brands.
Dryer demand swings harder than any other appliance
June is the peak at 14.0 percent of the year’s dryer calls and February the floor at 5.3 percent. That is a ratio of about 2.6 to 1, the sharpest seasonal curve of anything we repair. Summer carries 34.4 percent of annual dryer volume against 18.9 percent in winter.
The mechanism is laundry volume plus ambient heat on a machine that is already fighting to exhaust. A vent run that copes in January, when the air it is pushing into is cold and dry, stops coping in June. If you have been meaning to have the vent cleared, doing it in spring is both cheaper to schedule and lands before the failure window.
How a dryer visit works
- You book online or by phone and choose a window.
- The technician checks airflow and the vent run first, then heat, the element or gas train, thermostats, belt, rollers and the door switch.
- You get the full price before work starts, part and labour together.
- You approve the work or keep the diagnosis. Either way that visit is the $99 diagnostic and nothing more.
- Approved work carries a 90-day parts and labour warranty.
The vent gets checked first deliberately, because fixing an element without clearing the restriction that killed it means the same repair again next year.
What we repair
Electric, gas, vented, condenser and heat pump dryers, stacked washer-dryer units, and light commercial laundry. All major manufacturers. Stacked and commercial units carry the $150 diagnostic because both machines have to come apart.
Where the vent run actually matters
Two installations account for most of the airflow failures we see, and neither is the machine’s fault. The first is a long run: a laundry closet in the middle of a house venting through twenty feet of duct with several elbows. Every bend collects lint, and the manufacturer’s rated length assumes far fewer of them than most homes have. The second is a flexible foil hose crushed behind a machine that was pushed back too far during installation, which halves the cross-section before any lint arrives.
Both are worth looking at once rather than repeatedly. If your dryer has needed an element or a thermal fuse more than once, the machine is not the problem and replacing the same part again will not end it.
Getting more life out of a dryer
The maintenance that actually extends dryer life is short. Clear the lint screen every load and wash it under a tap a few times a year, because fabric softener leaves a film that blocks airflow while looking clean. Have the vent run cleared on a schedule rather than on symptoms. Do not overload, since a packed drum tumbles poorly and runs long, which is the same heat stress as a restriction. And check behind the machine after anyone moves it, because a crushed hose is the single most common self-inflicted fault we find.
Expected service life and when replacement starts to make sense are covered on how long dryers last.
Discounts
$30 OFFVeteransEvery repair
$30 OFFSeniorsEvery repair
$20 OFFNew customersFirst service call
The $179 annual membership covers five free diagnostics a year, priority scheduling with a 24 to 48 hour response, $30 off labour on every repair and an extended warranty on Bozmanfix work.
Frequently asked questions
How much does dryer repair cost?
The median dryer repair where a part is replaced is $352, with most jobs between $294 and $437 including parts, labour and the service call. Components run from $321 for a door switch to $478 for a control board, with the common heating element at $362. A diagnostic visit with no part replaced is $99.
My dryer is not heating. What is it likely to be?
No heat is our most common dryer complaint, at 969 repairs with a $368 median. On electric dryers it is usually the heating element at $362 or a thermostat at $350. Check the breaker first: many electric dryers run on a double breaker, and if one half trips the drum still turns while the heat is dead.
Why do my clothes take two cycles to dry?
That is an airflow problem rather than a heat problem, and it almost always means a restricted vent run, a crushed hose or lint packed into the housing beneath the lint screen. Clearing a blocked vent costs $350, about the same as the $362 element replacement that the restriction eventually causes, so dealing with it early replaces the more expensive repair rather than adding to it.
Is a blocked dryer vent dangerous?
Yes. Packed lint is combustible and a dryer that cannot exhaust runs hot, which is the mechanism behind most dryer fires. A vent that has not been cleared in several years is worth clearing whether or not the machine is currently misbehaving.
My dryer is making a loud rumbling noise. What is that?
Usually the drum rollers or the idler pulley, a $349 repair and the most common noise complaint we take at 601 repairs. It worsens gradually rather than suddenly, so it is worth booking before the roller seizes and puts load on the drive motor, which is a $394 repair.
The dryer will not start at all. Is that expensive?
Usually not. The most common causes are the door switch at $321 and the thermal fuse at $332, both at the cheap end of our table. A door switch is a very small part that stops the entire machine, which is why a dead dryer is often a smaller job than it feels like.
Do you repair gas dryers as well as electric?
Yes, both are standard work. Electric dryers fail mostly at the element and thermostats, gas dryers at the igniter and gas valve coils. Our sample of gas-specific component repairs is too small to publish reliable individual medians, so we quote the overall dryer median of $352 for both types and give the exact price on site after diagnosis.