A cooktop repair runs a median of $339, but the spread is wider than any other appliance we service: the middle half of jobs falls between $255 and $530. That width is the honest headline, and it comes from cooktops being three quite different appliances sold under one name.
What cooktop repair costs
| Amount |
|---|
| Median repair, part replaced | $339 |
| Middle half of jobs | $255 to $530 |
| Diagnostic visit on its own | $99 |
From 122 completed cooktop repairs. The exact figure for your unit comes from the diagnosis, priced in full before any work starts.
The shape of the range is clear. Element and burner-level work sits at the low end, near $255. Glass replacement and control boards on induction units sit at the high end, past $500. Which end you are looking at depends almost entirely on which of the three types you own.
Three appliances, one name
Gas
The cheapest to repair and the most forgiving. Burners, igniters, spark modules and valves are discrete parts that come off individually, so a fault is usually confined to one burner and the rest of the cooktop keeps working. Clicking that will not light, a burner that lights but will not hold a low flame, or uneven flame are all standard work. Gas ranges as a whole, where the cooktop and oven share a chassis, are covered on gas range repair.
Radiant electric under glass
The middle of the range. The elements themselves are replaceable, and a single dead zone on a working cooktop is usually an element or its switch. The complication is the glass: it is structural, it is what everything mounts to, and a cracked surface is not a cosmetic problem, because moisture and spills reach live components underneath.
Induction
The most expensive end. Induction cooktops are power electronics with a hob on top: each zone has its own coil and inverter board, and a failed zone is a board rather than a heating element. This is where the $530 upper quartile comes from. The trade-off is that induction failures are usually zone-specific rather than total, so the appliance stays usable while you decide.
Matching the symptom to the likely cause
- Gas burner clicks but will not light. Spilled food or moisture in the igniter cap, or the spark module. Mention whether the cap was recently cleaned; a wet or misaligned cap is one of the first things the technician checks.
- Gas burner lights but the flame is yellow or uneven. Blocked burner ports, a misseated burner cap, or a gas mixture problem. A correct flame is blue with a clean cone.
- One radiant zone dead, the rest fine. Element or the infinite switch behind it. The good news is that this does not spread.
- Induction zone shows an error and shuts off. Usually the inverter board for that zone, or a cooling fan failing and the unit protecting itself. Write down the error code before you call.
- Induction does not recognise a pan. The pan needs to be ferrous, so tell us whether a magnet sticks firmly to its base, because that decides whether the technician starts with the cookware or the zone.
- Controls unresponsive or the whole surface dead. Control board, or the lockout mode that most touch cooktops have and most owners activate by accident while wiping the surface.
- Cracked glass surface. Stop using it. This is covered below.
Worth telling us when you book. Touch cooktops almost all have a child lock that engages from a long press and looks identical to a dead control panel, so say whether the lock has been tried. Mention whether a full power cycle at the breaker for two minutes has been done, since it clears a number of electronic faults. On gas, say whether the burner caps were recently removed for cleaning, since a cap sitting proud by a millimetre stops ignition entirely. And on induction, say whether a magnet sticks firmly to the pan.
A cracked glass cooktop should not be used. The glass is not a cover, it is the barrier between spills and the live elements or coils underneath. Any crack, however fine, lets liquid through to wiring. Switch it off at the breaker and do not cook on it until it is replaced or assessed. On gas cooktops, a burner that will not light should not be clicked repeatedly, since each attempt releases gas; if you smell gas, leave and call the utility from outside. Full guidance on
gas appliance repair safety.
Where the glass decides the answer
Whether a cooktop repair makes sense usually comes down to one thing: glass.
Where the fault is a burner, an element or a switch, the repair is cheap and almost everyone goes ahead. Where the glass surface itself needs replacing, the part is a large piece of tempered ceramic cut to a specific model, and it frequently costs a meaningful fraction of a whole new cooktop. At that point the technician prices the glass against a new cooktop, so you decide with both numbers in front of you.
This is also why the price range on this page is so wide. Both of those outcomes are cooktop repairs, and they are not the same kind of job.
How a cooktop visit works
- You book online or by phone and pick a window.
- The technician tests each zone or burner independently, checks the switches or inverter boards, the igniters and gas train on gas units, and inspects the surface and seals.
- You get the full price before work starts, part and labour together, including whether a glass surface is involved.
- You approve the work or keep the diagnosis. Declining costs the $99 diagnostic and nothing more.
- Approved work carries a 90-day parts and labour warranty.
Tell us the make and model when you book if you can find it, usually on a label underneath or on the paperwork. On cooktops more than any other appliance the part is model-specific, and knowing it in advance is the difference between one visit and two.
What shortens a cooktop’s life
Sugar is the main enemy of glass surfaces. A sugary spill that is left to cool bonds to the ceramic and pulls a layer of it away when scraped off, and that pit becomes a stress point. Boil-overs with sugar in them should be cleaned while the surface is still warm, carefully, rather than left for later.
Dragging heavy cast iron across the glass scratches it, and scratches concentrate stress the same way pits do. Lift, do not slide. On gas, letting spills sit in the burner wells corrodes the igniter electrode, which is the single most common gas cooktop fault and entirely preventable.
And for induction specifically: the electronics underneath need airflow. Blocking the ventilation gap during installation, or filling the cabinet below with stored items, cooks the inverter boards slowly. Zone failures on induction cooktops in tight cabinets are common enough that we check the installation before assuming a component.
What we repair
Gas, radiant electric, ceramic and induction cooktops, downdraft units, and built-in premium models from Wolf, Viking, Thermador and Miele alongside the mainstream manufacturers. Where the cooktop is part of a range rather than a separate built-in unit, see oven and range repair. Gas appliances generally are covered on what appliances use gas.
Downdraft units
Downdraft cooktops, where the extraction is built into the surface instead of a hood overhead, add a second appliance to the same opening. The blower motor, the damper and the ducting are their own failure points, and a downdraft that has stopped extracting is usually a motor or a damper stuck closed rather than anything to do with the cooking surface.
Worth knowing about downdraft units: they are deeper than standard cooktops and the mechanism sits in the cabinet below, so access takes longer and the diagnosis covers two systems. If the extraction has failed but the burners work, say so on the call, because it changes what the technician brings.
When the cooktop and the oven are one appliance
A slide-in or freestanding range shares a chassis, a control board and often a gas supply between the cooktop and the oven, and that changes the diagnosis in a useful way. If the burners light but the oven does not, the gas and the power are proven and the fault is in the oven side. If the whole appliance is dead, the technician checks the supply before the appliance.
A built-in cooktop with a separate wall oven has none of that overlap. They are two independent appliances that happen to share a kitchen, and a fault in one says nothing about the other. Which of those two arrangements you have determines whether one visit can address both.
Discounts
$30 OFFVeteransEvery repair
$30 OFFSeniorsEvery repair
$20 OFFNew customersFirst service call
The $179 annual membership covers five free diagnostics a year, priority scheduling with a 24 to 48 hour response, $30 off labour on every repair and an extended warranty on Bozmanfix work.
Frequently asked questions
How much does cooktop repair cost?
The median cooktop repair where a part is replaced is $339, with the middle half of jobs between $255 and $530. That range is wider than any other appliance we service because burner and element work sits at the low end while glass surfaces and induction boards sit at the high end. A diagnostic visit with no part replaced is $99.
How is a cooktop repair priced?
From the diagnosis. Burner, element and switch work sits at the low end of the range and glass surfaces and induction boards at the high end, and the technician gives you the exact figure for your unit before any work starts.
My gas burner clicks but will not light. What is it?
Most often spilled food or moisture in the igniter cap, which the technician cleans and dries first. A burner cap that is not seated completely flat comes next, since a cap sitting proud by a millimetre prevents ignition entirely. If both are fine, the spark module or electrode is the likely cause.
Can I use a cooktop with a cracked glass surface?
No. The glass is the barrier between spills and the live elements or induction coils beneath it, not a cosmetic cover. Any crack lets liquid reach wiring. Switch the unit off at the breaker and stop cooking on it until it has been replaced or assessed.
One zone on my cooktop is dead but the others work. Is that a big repair?
On a radiant electric cooktop, usually not: it is typically the element or the switch behind it, and it does not spread to the other zones. On induction it is more likely the inverter board for that zone, which sits at the expensive end of the range. Either way the rest of the cooktop stays usable while you decide.
My induction cooktop does not recognise my pan.
Start with the pan: induction requires ferrous cookware, and the test is whether a magnet sticks firmly to its base. If the magnet holds and the cooktop still does not detect it while other pans work, the zone needs a diagnosis.
What decides whether a cooktop repair is worth doing?
Which of the two repairs you are having. Burner, element and switch faults are the common ones, they are quick and they are cheap, and almost everyone goes ahead. The glass surface is the expensive one: the part is model-specific tempered ceramic, so the technician prices that repair against a new cooktop for you before anything is ordered and you decide with both numbers in front of you.