How the price is built

Mounting starts at $165, and the form above adds each choice to that total as you make it, so the number you see before you book is the number on the invoice.

Three things move the price. The bracket, if you need one: fixed, tilting or full motion. The wall you are drilling into, since brick and concrete take longer and need different anchors than drywall over wood studs. And the extras — hiding the cords, a soundbar, a shelf, speakers, cables, or getting your Apple TV, Roku, console or cable box connected and working before the tech leaves.

If you already own a bracket, pick that option and the price drops accordingly. Bring it out of the box before the visit so the tech can check it against your TV.

What the visit looks like

  1. You pick the bracket, the spot, the wall type and any extras in the form. Dispatch calls back to confirm the address and the arrival window.
  2. The tech finds the studs, or sets the right anchors for brick or concrete, and marks the height with you before a single hole is drilled.
  3. The bracket goes up and gets checked on the level, then loaded, so the TV hangs straight and stays straight.
  4. Cords are run or concealed the way you chose, devices get connected, and the picture and sound are tested on the spot.
  5. The tech cleans up the dust and takes the packaging with him.

Wall types, and why they matter

Drywall over wood studs is the common case. The bracket has to catch the studs, not just the board, and the tech finds them before drilling. A TV hung on drywall anchors alone comes down eventually, and it takes a piece of the wall with it.

Brick and concrete hold better than anything, and they cost more to work with. The holes need masonry bits and sleeve anchors, the dust has to be controlled, and hitting a mortar joint instead of the brick face changes where the bracket can go.

Metal studs, plaster over lath, and the thin walls in some newer builds each need their own hardware. Tell dispatch what you have. If nobody knows, say so — the tech checks it on arrival and picks the right anchors then.

Above a fireplace

It is the most requested spot and the one worth thinking about twice. Two things decide whether it works: heat and height.

A gas or wood fire pushes heat straight up the face of the chimney breast. Most TVs are rated to about 100°F at the back, and a mantel that gets hot to the touch will pass that. A deep mantel shelf, or a few inches of standoff from a full-motion arm, usually solves it.

Height is the other half. Over a fireplace the screen sits higher than a sofa wants it, so a tilting or full-motion bracket earns its money there. Say the word at booking and the tech brings the right one.

Measure before you buy a bracket. Every bracket is rated for a screen size range and a weight, and the holes on the back of your TV follow the VESA pattern in millimetres — 200x200, 400x400 and 600x400 are the common ones. A bracket that misses either number cannot be made to fit on the day.

Cords, and getting rid of them

Two ways to hide the cable. On the wall, in a channel painted to match, which is quick and reversible. Or inside the wall, with a proper recessed power outlet behind the screen so nothing hangs below it. The second one looks like the TV grew out of the wall, and it is the option most people mean when they say they want the cords gone.

Feeding the power cable itself through a wall cavity is regulated work: the outlet behind the TV has to be a real outlet fed from the existing circuit, not an extension lead buried in the drywall. That is how we do it, and it is why in-wall concealment costs more than the surface channel.

What to have ready

The TV out of its box, if it is new. The remote and any device you want connected. Clear floor in front of the wall. And a decision on height, though the tech will hold the bracket up and let you look before anything is drilled.

If you rent, check your lease on drilling before booking. Most landlords are fine with a mount and a patched hole at move-out, some are not, and it is a cheaper conversation to have now.

Sizes, weights and what the wall can take

A 55-inch TV weighs about 35 to 45 pounds. A 75-inch runs 70 to 100. The bracket has to be rated above that number, and the anchors have to be rated above the bracket — with a full-motion arm the load multiplies as the screen swings out, which is why those need studs or masonry rather than hollow-wall fixings.

Height is the other decision people change their mind about. Sitting on the sofa, your eyes should land in the middle of the screen or slightly below it. The tech holds the bracket in place and lets you look before drilling, so it is worth having whoever watches most TV in the room at that moment.

Questions people ask before booking

Do you bring the bracket?

Yes, if you pick one in the form: fixed, tilting or full motion, sized to your screen. If you already have one, choose that option and have it out of the box when the tech arrives.

How long does a mount take?

A straight mount on drywall is usually under an hour. Brick or concrete, in-wall cord concealment, a soundbar and a few devices can take two to three hours together.

Can you take an old TV down first?

Yes. Mention it when dispatch calls so the window is long enough for both jobs.

Do you work on the same day?

Often. Same-day slots open each morning and fill through the day, so an early booking has the best chance of one. The form shows what is actually free before you commit.

Do you also fix appliances at the same address?

That is our main trade — see appliance repair booking. If something in the kitchen needs looking at while the tech is there, say so when dispatch calls and we will schedule both.